Over 60 brands presented their latest offerings when Watches and Wonders this year Innovation and daring design immediately come to the fore as key highlights. While certain brands zeroed in on introducing novel mechanisms internally, others opted for enhancing resilience and functionality. Still, others dedicated their efforts to revamping aesthetics through color choices and case dimensions.
When Vacheron Constantin launched the Les Cabinotiers Solaria, they set a new benchmark by incorporating an impressive 41 complications into a single wristwatch. During a group discussion, Christian Selmoni, who oversees heritage and style at Vacheron Constantin, explained, “Typically, when dealing with such intricate ‘grand complication’ pieces, you’ll notice elements like engraving or gem-setting to highlight their complexity and enhance the worth of the timepiece.” However, he continued, “[For this model], we opted for a minimalist approach...” He added that due to the highly technical nature of the dial’s design, ensuring clarity was paramount; hence, the overall aesthetic appears quite stark. The aim was to ground the piece firmly within contemporary aesthetics—an unconventional move that might surprise some yet ultimately be appreciated, particularly considering how boldly it departs from traditional norms.
Although Selmoni focuses particularly on the Solaria line, the aspiration to create daring and engaging designs that remain practical and stylish permeates through all the varied and impressive collections presented by different labels this season.
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New movements, new borders
Vacheron Constantin and Bulgari are certainly not the only names pushing boundaries in 2025, and nor was Rolex the only brand that debuted a stunning new movement Grand Seiko created a stir when they introduced their Spring Drive UFA, featuring the innovative 9RB2 caliber. This timepiece merges quartz oscillation with conventional mechanical power to attain remarkable precision, reaching an accuracy within plus or minus 20 seconds annually.
A. Lange & Söhne launched two new movements designed for enhanced comfort. The Minute Repeater Perpetual features the innovative L122.2 caliber and integrates large date display, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater functions within a remarkably slim 12.1mm case profile. Additionally, the company debuted their most compact interpretation of the 1815 series equipped with the slimmer calibre L152.1, resulting in a more petite timepiece boasting an impressive 72-hour power reserve.
Upgrades are not solely about movements; brands have also emphasized functionality. The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech enables you to adjust the perpetual calendar using just the crown, eliminating the need for additional pushers or correctors.
Complicated yet functional
IWC Schaffhausen has revised its Big Pilot's Watch Shock Absorber, featuring a new tourbillon mechanism. The SPRING-Protection system utilizes cantilever springs to hold the movement in place and disperse shocks effectively, safeguarding both the tourbillon and the skeletonized movement against forces of up to 10,000g.
Lorenz Bruner, who manages the research and innovation division at IWC, emphasizes that shock absorption isn’t so much of a complication but rather a pragmatic approach—historically speaking, as far back as 1967 with the IWC Yacht Club model, they incorporated such features. He stated, “Our aim is to enhance the durability of the timepiece.” This year’s primary objective has been to adapt a tourbillon mechanism for use in a sporty wristwatch design.
For this purpose, the timepiece utilizes Certanium, which merges ceramic with titanium—indeed, IWC Schaffhausen is among numerous brands employing ceramics or similar alternative materials to enhance durability in intricate wristwatches.
Parmigiani Fleurier has introduced a new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph crafted from an innovative material they refer to as Cermet, which combines ceramic with metal alloys resulting in a sleek, dark sheen.
Among Chopard's latest additions to the Alpine Eagle collection are two models: one crafted from platinum, and another featuring the high-frequency (an impressive 8Hz) 41 SL Cadence 8HF. The latter model benefits from a combination of ceramic and titanium for enhanced lightweight construction.
Explosion of colour
When it comes to design, brands chose even bolder and more colorful offerings this time around. To mark its 160th anniversary, Zenith presented an eye-catching blue version for each of its primary collections. However, their standout launch brought back the calibre 135 with a vintage-style G.F.J., featuring a striking lapis lazuli face paired with a blue mother-of-pearl subsidiary seconds dial.
To mark its 20th anniversary, Hublot presented an impressive collection featuring items from its Materials & High Complications line adorned in shades of red and aquatic blue sapphires. Additionally, they launched fresh versions of their One Click and Unico collections in hues of petrol blue and mint green. Expanding upon last year’s successful Kith Formula One series, TAG Heuer introduced several new color options. They also unveiled the elegant Carrera Date Twin-Time model sporting a striking teal face. Meanwhile, Oris enhanced its iconic Big Crown Pointer Date range by incorporating contemporary elements like pistachio green, coral, and lilac accents, complemented by coordinating colored hands.
Notably, Rolex provided the Oyster Perpetual with pastel dial options including pistachio green, lavender, and beige. Meanwhile, Tudor introduced a fully burgundy-colored Black Bay 58 model.
Size matters (less)
The striking appearance of Tudor’s burgundy dial was nearly matched by another addition to the Black Bay line-up. Released during a time when watch designs were becoming progressively more compact, the Black Bay 68 came with a substantial 43mm case size, designed to fit a broader spectrum of wrist dimensions.
At Watches and Wonders, sizes were notably diverse. Montblanc presented two contrasting models: a substantial 43.5mm diving watch called the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson limited edition, alongside a more petite 38mm Iced Sea Automatic 0 Oxygen model. Parmigiani Fleurier scaled back another version of their Tonda PF Chronograph to 40mm, whereas Ulysse Nardin’s new Diver (Air), although highly comfortable for everyday wear, maintains an imposing 44mm diameter. The lightweight nature of this timepiece—just 52 grams—is largely due to its skeletonization design and construction from materials like carbon fiber and titanium, which collectively make up about 80 percent of the watch's volume with "air."
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